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Rob's US-West Road Trip, 2005
August 2 - October 22
Finally, I have embarked. Moving was an unbelievable amount of work, and was complicated by preparing for the trip at the same time, and moving stuff to storage. I had to make sure nothing I would need/want for the trip got packed/moved to storage, and other things. Anyway, it was very difficult, stressful, and emotional, and took a week longer than I had expected. After that, I continued trip preparation at my parents house in Los Altos Hills. It took me three more weeks to get gone, dealing with both trip preparation and a backlog of personal business that I wanted to take care of before leaving. I took care of a lot of stuff, but still ended up packing some projects to do en-route. I just had to leave in order to make it to Seattle by August 7 for a flight to Juneau, AK. There I will meet my son Jacob and we will take a sea-plane to a USFS cabin (see link below), after spending a day in Juneau.
I left my parents house at 4:20pm August 2, and stopped at storage one last time, then visited a couple of friends on my way out who gave me a fond fairwell. This took me until about 1:30am at which point I crashed in my van at the Berkeley Marina. I didn't sleep that well, but awoke energized none-the-less and worked out for a few hours at a gym in San Pablo where I showered and shaved and am now looking and feeling quite spiffy.
Right now I am parked in a wide turn-out off of a backcountry road near Placerville. The sun just set, and it is getting dark. Tomorrow I will blow up my kayak and launch myself into the South Fork of the American River at Chili Bar. It is 20+ miles to the take out near Folsom Lake. If I don´t kill myself doing that I will hitch a ride back to my van and drive north on 49 to visit my Uncle Bob and Aunt Marge at their place near Nevada City. We may take their motor boat out, and maybe do some water skiing.
Natalie Merchant's Mother-Land album provided a very apt accompaniment for my journey's beginning, and I will remember it forever for that. Afterwards and presently, "Off the Beaten Path" recorded from KPFA, (hosted Monday nights 10-12 by DJ Sep, 94.1 - check it out) is setting the mood really nicely.
More after I eat... or, not.
Wishing I had been writing more promptly, since after a while the experiences are not as fresh. Anyway, here's the scoop:
August 4 - I woke up early (for me), "showered", and packed up way too much stuff to take with me on my journey down the South Fork of the American River. I launched around noon from Chili Bar and there was no one there but me. The trip downstream was, in a word, awesome. Being by myself made it a bit lonely and a bit spooky, but also allowed me to really connect with the river and keep going at my own rate, which was mostly quite fast. My new/very-used inflatable kayak performed flawlessly in the rapids and I was really feeling pretty full of myself and the river until I dumped it at the front end of an intense sequence of class 4 rapids (meat grinder? hell's kitchen?). I was wearing thigh straps when I tipped, which are supposed to be easy to get off, and are, but that first 3 or 4 seconds going down the rapids upside down whilst trying to remove the thigh straps was really invigorating (read terrifying). Anyway, I stopped for lunch and mustered the gumption to finish the float, this time without the thigh straps. I managed to get through the "trouble-maker" rapids without dumping, much to my pleasure and relief. I pulled out where the river diverges from highway 49 near Folsom Lake and hitched a ride back to my car. The guy who gave me a ride was really fun to talk to and had a great dog... I drove to my Aunt & Uncle's house about an hour northeast of Grass Valley, without falling asleep, arriving about 11:30pm, at which point we talked till 1:30 or so then finally, sleep...
August 5 - Spent the day driving around Bob & Marge's house - wow! - what a great backyard (see pictures). It was this evening that I realized catching a plane in Seattle was not pragmatic, and rescheduled my flight to leave from Sacramento.
August 6 - Hung out with my aunt and uncle. I don't even remember what we did, but we enjoyed each others company quite a lot.
August 7 - Bob and Marge gave me a ride to the airport and off I went. The airlines lost my bags, so I stayed at the airport until they arrived, then opted for a cheap hotel nearby, being too late for the hostel.
August 8 - I slept in, scouted around, gathered info, and met Jacob at the airport in the evening. We ate and bed early.
August 9 - We took Juneau tram up 1800 feet and hiked up another 2000 feet or so almost to top of Mount Roberts (see pictures).
August 10-12 - East Turner Lake Cabin (see pictures). Very beautiful lake, very remote, but the fish were not biting for us. We heard the howl of wolves nearby on the second night. The float plane in and out was a special plus. Oh, the climb up steep rock ravine was a highlight as well.
August 12, afternoon/evening - Hike to Mendenhall Glacier. This may very well have been the highlight of the trip. It was an awesome trail, awesome rocks with no trail, awesome to approach the glacier until we could touch it. It was threaded with caves and the under side was unbelievably beautiful. (see pictures). Jacob and I got off course briefly on the return trip and ended up hiking up a very steep rock face to get back on track - very cool.
August 13 - Jacob and I returned on the same flight to Sacramento.
August 14 - Jacob enjoyed being home, and I returned to my Aunt Marge & Uncle Bob's house to get my van and re-organize for the next phase.
August 15 - This day lost - hanging out, planning, ...
August 16 - To Grass Valley to do errands, including procuring bicycle rack and roof rack. To those of you who said my van had too much stuff in it - you were right.
Summary: Chico
Wednesday August 17 - Lost Day.
Thursday August 18 - Arrived in Chico just in time for a full-moon block-party. I was in the mood and it was good. Danced with this really yummy chico-an mountain woman, but didn't have the guts to exchange contact info. Anyway, school starts Monday Aug 22 and the energy here is very festive.
Friday August 19 - Bluegrass live courtesy of "Crazy Grass" (see crazygrass.com). Met some very wonderful people from Chico, Detroit, and Colorado and we went up on the bluffs and drummed on the cliffs - note: moon still very full. Slept back aways...
Saturday August 20 - Got up at the crack of hot, took a much valued shower... Spent the afternoon sleepng and the evening socializing with these wonderful people and making an incredible feast. I gave half the people massages.
Sunday August 21 - Got up early and did all sorts of things, including massaging the other half of the folk, and culminating in saying goodbye to my new friends. Whilst napping in the park I met a beautiful Hawaiian/Japanese/Chinese woman who was perhaps a bit over-friendly to me. She was a bit drunk and a bit lost - I should have used my better judgement and encouraged her to be on her way. Instead, I hung out with her for a while, drawn in by her beauty and openness. It ultimately did not turn out well, but reinforced my lesson to listen to my wiser voices. She seemed surprised and insulted when I finally sent her on her way. I don't think she was out to hurt me, just a lost soul...
Monday August 22 - This day devoted to repairing my computer. I managed to get a newly cloned hard drive into it, and have decided to enhance my backup procedure to use a secondary hard-drive instead of just DVD+RW. I'm at "Has Beans" using their internet connection, and once again computer life is good.
Please standby for Chico pictures.
Summary: Still in Chico
Really hot last night - couldn't sleep. I've been having difficulties connecting to my SMTP server for email sending, which I am working on now (pop server access for receiving is OK). Resorting to web-mail as an interim solution - having difficulties with email address list which I just solved, so I'm going to put this page on the web and send the announcement email now and reply to individual emails later. Thank you for your patience.
I am near to bed in my van on the side of a side road off 197 off 101 just north of Crescent City (did ya get all that?).
I've decided not to go to Burning Man again this year, althought it sure tugs at me. Instead, I will depart for the Oregon coast.
Oh, I forgot to tell you a good story - When leaving Bob & Marge's house, I forgot to remember that "drive safely" also means "park safely". I got out of my van to look closer at a sign but left my van in 'Drive'. When I turned around, my van was heading for the cliff. I ran full force and dove in and managed to arrest it just before losing everything. Guess what kind of car was coming and got front row seats for it? - Cop. Yep. He was really cool and we both had a good laugh about it before wishing each other well. I now am as careful about getting out of my van as I am driving it!
Reflections on Chico: I really love that town - "the people there are as warm as the weather" is my saying for it. Also, there are tons of big old trees, everywhere, many different kinds.
Wednesday August 24 - After getting external hard drive for backups, drove to Eureka to explore and wait for passport (for entry to Canada) to arrive on Friday. Although I was looking forward to getting into cooler weather than Chico, Eureka was the opposite extreme (cold, dark/overcast, & windy). I now long for something in the middle (Oregon perhaps?). I took 36 across the mountains and strangely had near perfect cell phone reception the whole way. Perhaps the loggers have a need for cell through there(?), otherwise it is mostly uninhabited, save for a few small moutain towns and such. I slept at the dead end of a long dirt road that was very quiet - far from the main road, and no water or wind. Ahhhh... I assume it was a logging road - not a fire road, and not residential - dunno.
Eureka was initially disappointing. The land where 36 meets 101 is unimpressive and the south end of the town is kindof dinjy-looking suburbia. That combined with the weather made me scowl. I am convinced that Eureka was born from the harbor and for no other reason. The downtown was actually quite nice, and redeemed itself by having free internet access at a lovely coffee house. Oh, did I tell you? - the man playing guitar was playing in Chico when I was there, too, and we had a good long chat. We may hook up in Seattle since he is touring for 2 months on a similar route as me. Anyway, I also got to see the "Battle of the Bands", outdoors/brisk, but an unexpected treat. (see pictures)
Thursday August 25 - Migrated to Arcata, where I danced for several hours to the music of a very upbeat version of hip-hop. The Humboldt Rockers (a dance company) were there performing as well as dancing with the crowd. Woah, them Arcatians do know how to party (sorry no pictures). Place: Humboldt Brewery. The Humboldt Rockers do a sort of modern-day break dancing that is very athletic, to say the least. Slept on the banks of the Mad River (see pictures).
Friday August 26 - Started the day with an hour in a super delightful Finnish Hot Tub / Sauna house. I bet heaven is a lot like this place (see pictures). If you ever go to Arcata, go here - 5th and J. After picking up my passport at the post office in Eureka, drove to Crescent City. Slept off a small road, off another small road, a ways from the highway (see pictures).
I am near to bed in my van on the coast near "Seven Devils" State Park, about 1/2 hour South of Coos Bay. This one of the few nights I parked before it was pitch black and so got to see some of where I am before morning, and I must say, this is one beautiful beach. I am parked right next to a creek and it is serenading me as I write. The coastline between Crescent City and Meyers State Beach was encased in fog so I don' know what I was driving through. I got some cool pictures at Meyers though as the fog lifted, and the rest of the day was brightly sunny, warm, and beautiful. I spent the afternoon surfing in my kayak - the water was not as cold as I expected, and I did not need a wetsuit. (see pictures). Good night...trickle, trickle...
I am in South Bend, Washington - a few dozen miles from the Oregon border.
Washington is no less beautiful than Oregon, only different, but I haven't taken any pictures yet - trying to make tracks, plus my knee is killing me (hiking, driving, not stretching enough).
I spent 8/26-8/30 just driving up the Oregon coast, exploring much, and sleeping in my van - see pictures.
8-31-9/4 - Seaside International Hostel. Fabulous place, fabulous people - both the staff and the residents. We worked together, ate together, watched the sunset together, sang and played music and drummed together, sat by the fire together, and kayak/canoed. I wish I had taken more pictures here, especially of the people, but I don't like taking pictures of people - don't get my wrong - I love having the pictures of people, I just don't like the tension that arises sometimes when the camera comes out, nor the disruption in the flow of energy that sometimes occurs when pictures are taken. I got a few nevertheless.
I am in Oxbow campground in Olympic National Park, Washington - along Hoh River - a few dozen miles inland from Ruby Beach, which is the northern-most coastal access point along 101 in Washington.
Yesterday was spent at beaches in the morning and evening, driving in between (including detours, of course). Today was spent at the campground.
Dang near pitched my tent here, but the van is so convenient - off to bed...
I am parked at a turn-out along the road near the trailhead to Boulder Creek Hot Springs, in the northern part of Olympic National Park, still in Washington. It seems that after dealing with the days pictures I have scant "computing steam" remaining. It is dark, and time to have a little vittle, then turn in for an early start up the trail to the hot springs in the morning. God, I hope my knees hold out. G'night. I hope you are enjoying the pictures.
I am at a USFS campground near (just west of) North Cascades National Park in Washington. No reason not to check out Baker Hot Springs, since its only a few miles up the road and less than 1/2 mile hike in. This is the first time mosquitos have been an issue, but the campground is gorgeous, free, and I'm the only one in it, which seems kinda weird to me, after experiencing 290/300 sites full at Disappointment Pass campground. Today I also experienced my first raindrops. I'm not sure how many of them were real and how many were just drippings from the trees after an evening of dampness. In any case, the "rain" has now subsided and its time to pack up for the springs.
I am at a $5 campground just east of North Cascades National Park in Washington. This is the first time I've paid to camp, and I must say I don't mind paying $5 for the services that are provided. I get pretty urked when they charge $15-25 which is the norm. The national park is wet on the west side and dry on the east side, indicative of the distinct differences eco-system-wise between western and eastern Washington. It took me a while to get used to it but I can now see the beauty of the dry side as well. A dry campground has distinct advantages which I took advantage of for last nights organizational frenzy. Much better organized, I shall now continue my journey eastward along highway 20.
I am at a $10 hostel in Naples, Idaho (northern part off Hwy 2). Did I tell you how much I love hostels? This one had me worried a bit upon first arrival, seeing as it is not particularly attractive nor inviting from the outside. But, on the inside it is beautiful and rustic, not unlike the cabin I used to own in La Honda, and lots of space, plus a big honkin' butchers block (about 4 feet square and 1+1/2 feet thick!) in case I get inspired to go kill a large wild animal. Anyway, at the moment, everyone else has either gone to bed or has not arrived yet and I have the place (the public area(s)) all to myself. No sounds except the heater (wood stove has not been lit yet since last spring, it looks like - but I bet it will be within a week or two) and occasionally the train and a few animal cries. Anyway again, I am trying to decide whether to go east into Glacier National Park, or cut south and follow the Bitter-root Mountain Range. I may actually do both: sort of loop through Glacier NP, then go down the Bitter-roots. Hmmm, that will take me an extra week or so. Hmmmmmm... it is my clear preference to have my cake and eat it too. Perhaps it will be clearer in the morning. G'night ...zzzzzzzzzzzzzz ...
I am at a shishy coffee house in Whitefish, Montana - northwestern region, just west of Glacer National Park. Un-fussing-believable. I did not realize a place like this exists in Montana. I feel like I'm in Beverly Hills, California. Everyone is rich, stylish, hair recently cut, drives expensive cars, lives in expensive houses, is beautiful and fit... the town is immaculate and classy. People talk like "valley girls" but I must say everyone seems very happy. I suppose if you've got everything money can buy, including a great location near the ski slopes and park, the only thing that could keep you from being happy would be a lack of gratitude (I expect lots of comments about the secrets to happiness after such a bold remark).
I am at an Internet Cafe in Columbia Falls, near the western entrance of Glacier National Park, in Montana. Yesterday afternoon I drove the "going-to-the-sun" road through the park, from west to east. It was raining, spectacular, and although I snapped over 100 pictures (not all shown) the pictures don't even come close to conveying the vividity of what the eyes saw (see text accompanying pictures for excuses). Today, I drove the same road back, just after sunrise. It is relatively clear and sunny, but windy. I only snapped a few pictures on the return trip because most of the peaks were in shadow and I was feeling very "picture'd out" after yesterday, not to mention being tired from a "less than averagely good" night sleep and getting up with the sun, although I do feel somewhat virtuous being up with the morning people. When you look at the pictures, note the difference in the pictures of the same scenes taken on the two different days.
I am in Missoula - the only town with an internet connection south of Kalispell, me-thinks (not counting dialup, which is about as much fun as a dead puppy). Anyway, since last log date, I have stayed at a hostel in Montana, visited Glacier NP one more time, visited Barbara Cowan, Kootenai River, and Yaak River. Pictures are current through yesterday - todays pictures will go up next round.
Back in Missoula at the MacKenzie River Pizza Company. Sun has set and after a slice of pizza and an internet update I won't need Missoula for a couple of days. I'll be heading west on Highway 12 to find a quick bed in the forest closer to Jerry Johnson Hot Springs, where I'll go tomorrow (in Idaho). I spent today visiting with some friends: Kelly and his family have a delightful set of homes on the lake front of Placid Lake. I was fortunate enough to visit on the last day of the sailing season, and I have the video to prove it - see below. Note: video should play smoothly after WebPhotoBrowser finishes loading.
At Lake Como. The sun just went down over the Bitter-roots. The weather has been very inconsistent for the last couple of weeks - raining sometimes, clear sometimes, warm sometimes, cold sometimes. Today it was very warm (70s), but rained off and on. The wind just kicked up for the first time today.
Monday, Sept 26 - Woke up near the top of Mormon Peak in the US Forest of Montana, just South of Highway 12, just West of Lolo, South of Missoula. Drove to Jerry Johnston Hot Springs in Idaho off 12, hiked in and soaked all afternoon and evening, then found a great spot nearby to spend the night.
Tuesday, Sept 27 - I liked that spot so well that I stayed another day & night there - first time of the trip I spent more than one night in the same spot, not counting friends/relatives/Seaside-Hostel. Only one picture there - camera broke. Worked on my flash video player to be able to bring you the video that should be displayed above for Sept 25.
Wednesday, Sept 28 - Drove to Missoula for more organization/supplies & to get camera fixed. Stayed overnight off Mormon Peak Road again, but did not drive up to the peak.
Thursday, Sept 29 - Got camera fixed, and enjoyed cafes and people in downtown Missoula, then headed down 93 to Lake Como.
At Twin Lakes, where the sun just went down over the Continental Divide, and I just had dinner in my leaner packed van, thanks to a stop at the US Post Office in Darby, MT - where I mailed myself one box and a large cooler, both full. I tormented for weeks over whether to downscale the cooler. The large cooler fits a 10# block of ice perfectly and will hold as much as I want to put in it. Not only that but it makes a great seat. On the other hand, I could not figure out any place to put it where it was not in the way, thus I was moving it around a lot, which is inconvenient at best, and cold/wet at worst when its raining and I have to schlep it around to the front seat for sleeping. Back-track: the small cooler I got is electric, but will kill a battery in a few hours if you don't watch it (which I learned from experience killing my backup battery) - very inefficient, and no under-voltage shut-off. You can run it forever as long as the car is running, but turn off the engine and you better not leave it plugged in for more than an hour or two. So, I'm using ice again, with electric supplementation. It won't even take a full 7# bag which costs the same as a 10# block. I think I'll get another tiny cooler to take the rest of the ice bag and a little extra food. Good idea. Might even be able to split a block between 'em. Hmmmm... I can sit on the smaller cooler as well, its just not quite as luxurious. Bottom-line is I don't have to be moving a heavy cooler around all the time, and the main price is I have to not acquire any food that won't fit. Aren't you glad I shared all that with you? Anyway, today I watched the sunrise at Lake Como, and the sunset at Twin Lakes, with a gorgeous drive in between, with plenty of time for a meal and a chat with the locals at the bar (the breakfast bar), who were quite fun.
Near Bannack State Park. Almost stayed at my first State Park there. $12 - cheapest I've found so far, but not as cheap as me. Just couldn't quite see camping next to RVs and people who think its OK to make noise early, as long as no one else makes noise late, and have to pay to do it. No sirree. I've got my own little slice of paradise where no one bothers me except myself (har-har). Just doin' my computer duties, including the creation of the map you see below whilst listening to Bethoven's 9th symphony. Now progressing to the Big Bad Voodoo Daddies - not good bed-time music but damn good website updating music. Anyway, I'm feeling all refreshed from a multi-hour soak at Jackson Hot Springs. I set my "primitive hot springs only" snobbery aside for the day and had a good long soak. $5 for all-day - acceptable, and had some good conversation to boot. Now to bed, tomorrow - get near to Yellowstone, maybe even stay in hostel, but hostels near national parks are about double other hostels - on second thought maybe I won't.
PS - The drive to Bannack from Jackson was awesome - some of the most breathtaking sky I've seen - not captured well on photos - subtle pastels - my camera would often not even be able to achieve focus. Morning drive from Twin Lakes to Jackson was not as spectacular as yesterdays drive to Twin Lakes from Lake Como.
At Park Street Grill & Cafe - great food in Gardiner, MT - just north of Yellowstone Park. Today I did self maintenance (shave, trim, ...), followed by another few hours at "The Tumbleweed", at which point I was ready to tour the park some more. Having just enough time to do the northeastern road. There was an accident that cost an hour delay, and the road was closed shortly thereafter, so it wasn't a very full day tour-wise.
Sunday, October 2 - Bannack to Upper Red Rock Lake.
Monday, October 3 - Upper Red Rock Lake to Yellowstone.
Tuesday, October 4 - Boiling River.
Wednesday, October 5 - Touring the park.
At un-named free campground in Grand Teton National Park, for the second day. It is 8:16am and still too cold to go outside so I'm in my van with the heater on. Some people say this is cheating - I agree. After completeing this log entry I will make food then head back to PoleCat HotSprings to get a "shower" before touring the Grand Tetons a bit and moving on to Jackson (WY) for laundry, internet, and lunch.
Thursday, October 6 - Touring Yellowstone, beginning with the Grand Canyon / Yellowstone Falls on the east side and ending with Midway Geyser Basin on the southwest side. Afterward, I exited the park southbound into Grand Teton for Huckleberry & Polecat Hot Springs.
Friday, October 7 - Huckleberry & Polecat Hot Springs. After hiking a 15 minute trail that included wading Polecat Creek, I landed at Huckleberry Hot Springs. There was one spectacular and promising pool but it turned out to be not quite right - too shallow, bottom rocks too sharp, and the killer - a tiny bit of seepage from the bottom that was scalding. None-the-less I managed to find a spot where only my shoulder got burned (I call this the "Huckleberry Patch"), then didn't move for about a half hour, the pool was probably 108 degrees and so I was good to walk naked through the marsh to find a more user friendly pool - all huckleberry pools were too mucky, and either too hot (and no cold stream nearby) or too cool - very frustrating - on to Polecat: back down the trail and along Polecat Creek another 10 minutes. I found one that, although mucky, and only about 102 degrees, was good enough for a couple hours, at which time I got out, got dressed, and discovered the one just above it - less mucky, about 106 degrees, and this is where I'm going tomorrow - still need a "shower" before moving on since I didn't get one today due to the less than desirable showering conditions of the day (temperature, muck, ...).
At Sierra Hot Springs in the Mountains near Sierraville, California.
Sunday, October 9 - Started this day in Wyoming, just a stones throw from Idaho, just west of the Teton Pass, and ended in Utah, after a beautiful drive, including the eastern shore of Bear Lake, which stradles Wyoming and Utah.
Monday, October 10 - Utah: desert, Ogden Canyon leading to Salt Lake City, Utah International Hostel.
Tuesday, October 11 - Utah: Hostel to Baker Hot Springs in remote desert of Western Utah.
Wednesday, October 12 - Utah: Morning at Baker, afternoon in Delta fixing cracked oil pan, a bit of progress west - almost to Nevada.
Thursday, October 13 - Utah -> Nevada: Great Basin National Park.
Friday, October 14 - Nevada: Great Basin National Park to Ely for new set of tires, then to Eureka, now firmly traveling along the loneliest road in America - Highway 50 west.
Saturday, October 15 - Nevada: Diana's Punchbowl, Pott's Ranch, and Spencer Hot Springs.
Sunday, October 16 - Nevada -> California.
Monday, October 17 - Sierra Hot Springs, in the mountains near Sierraville, CA.
At parents home in Los Altos Hills. Trip concluded.
Spent October 17 (night) through October 21 (evening) at Sierra Hot Springs. Really fabulous place and my stay was deeply discounted due to massage trading and other unknown blessings. Real hard to leave. Weather: perfect, place: perfect, water: perfect. Drove to Los Altos Hills October 21 (evening) through October 22 (wee hours).
I am feeling truly lost at last.
Southeast Alaska
Oregon
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